Leather is more than just a material—it's a testament to centuries of craftsmanship, trade, and cultural identity. While global fashion houses and modern industries showcase leather as a luxury good, its roots lie deep in the soil of England, particularly in places like Walsall and Northamptonshire. These two regions have long held quiet but powerful roles in shaping the leather industry, both in the UK and abroad. With household brands such as Ettinger, Beorma Leather Company, and Aspinal of London either based or associated with these area's we wanted to dig into the history.
We discuss the hidden history of leather-making in Walsall and Northamptonshire, from modest craft to global names in saddlery, shoemaking, and fine leather goods.
Walsall: Saddlers of the World
A Town Built on the Saddle
Walsall, in the West Midlands, rose to prominence in the 19th century as the beating heart of saddlery and bridlework. By the mid-1800s, Walsall was supplying saddles for the British Army and the expanding British Empire. The town became known as the “Saddlers' Town”, and to this day, it remains a global center for equestrian leather goods.
But Walsall’s leatherworking roots go even deeper dating back to the 16th century. Small-scale tanneries and family-run workshops laid the foundations for the large factories that followed during the Industrial Revolution.
Craftsmanship Meets Industry
What made Walsall unique was its ability to marry traditional handcraft with industrial production. Skilled saddlers worked alongside metalworkers to produce not just leather goods, but also the buckles, stirrups, and fixings required for complete saddles and harnesses.
Even today, companies like Walsall Leather Company and Abbey England continue to operate, many using time-honoured techniques passed down through generations.
Northamptonshire: Sole of the Nation
The Epicentre of Shoemaking
While Walsall was saddling up, Northamptonshire was putting its best foot forward—literally. From the 13th century onward, towns like Northampton, Kettering, and Wellingborough became hubs for shoemaking, thanks to their proximity to cattle markets and access to good water for tanning.
By the 19th century, Northamptonshire had established itself as the home of Goodyear-welted footwear, a durable and high-quality construction technique still used today.
From Boots to Brogues
Northamptonshire shoemakers were key suppliers to the British Army, especially during the Napoleonic and World Wars. This demand accelerated innovation and expanded production. But despite industrialisation, the region retained its artisan roots—something that’s evident in brands like Church’s, Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, and Loake, which still manufacture their shoes locally.
These family-run firms have not only survived the test of time—they've flourished, blending traditional techniques with modern design to stay globally relevant.
Tanning, Tradition, and Transition
The Forgotten Tannery Towns
While Walsall and Northamptonshire became known for finished goods, tanning—the smelly and laborious process of turning animal hides into usable leather—often took place in smaller surrounding villages. Tanning was deeply embedded in rural life, often located near rivers due to the need for large amounts of water.
As environmental and industrial regulations tightened in the 20th century, many tanneries closed or moved abroad. Yet the cultural memory and architectural traces—from tannery buildings to street names—remain.
Despite economic shifts and globalisation, both Walsall and Northamptonshire have seen a resurgence of interest in heritage craftsmanship.
Initiatives like:
- The National Saddlery Centre in Walsall
- The Northampton Museum and Art Gallery, home to the world’s largest collection of shoes
-
Various craft apprenticeships and trade events
...are helping keep the tradition alive, not just for nostalgia but as a modern movement of sustainable, quality-focused manufacturing.
The stories of Walsall and Northamptonshire are more than just industry tales—they're stories of resilience, adaptation, and pride. Behind every saddle and shoe lies a network of craftspeople who shaped not only local economies but also national identity.
In an age of fast fashion and disposable goods, the hidden history of leather-making in these regions reminds us of the value of craftsmanship, patience, and heritage.
Image Credit: @ettingerlondon @bbc @historywebsite > walsall
